What is contrast makeup theory?

Contrast theory – or, more accurately, ‘the law of colour contrast’ – has been around for over a century. As a design principle, contrast theory involves using visually opposing elements to draw the eye to specific focal points. More recently, this idea was popularised on TikTok by a French makeup artist, who applied contrast theory to makeup looks.

Contrast makeup uses the contrast between your hair, skin, eyebrows and eyes to determine which makeup shades, tones and styles best complement your natural features.

How to apply contrast theory

In makeup, contrast theory is about creating visual harmony between facial elements, or – if you want a more dramatic makeup look – playing up the juxtaposition, instead. Contrast makeup is based on three skin tones – fair, medium and deep – and three contrast levels – low, medium and high. Lancôme Australia’s Beauty Director Lara Srokowski weighs in:

Read on to find out if you are low, medium or high contrast, and how you can apply contrast makeup to amplify your natural beauty.

Low contrast makeup

If you have a low contrast face, that means there is more visual harmony between your skin, hair, eyes and eyebrows. The value of these facial features is uniform, meaning no single element stands out starkly from the rest. For example, you might have fair skin and blonde hair, or a deep skin tone and dark hair colour.

Natural-looking makeup and neutral tones complement low contrast complexions because it keeps facial features looking soft. Harsh, intense colours are less complementary and have a different effect: drawing attention to the place where makeup is heaviest.

Staples of low contrast makeup:

• Light eye makeup maintains the visual balance of your features.
• A dusting of blush or bronzer delivers a subtle glow.
• Natural, lightly shaped brows maintain softness – use our Brôw Shaping Powdery Pencil to achieve a subtle feathered look.
• A nude or natural pink lipstick like L'Absolu Rouge Intimatte Lipstick in 'First Kiss', or a shiny lip gloss like Juicy Tubes Lip Gloss in ‘Spring Fling’ offer a wash of colour while maintaining a no-makeup makeup look.

Low contrast inspiration:

One of Lancôme’s global ambassadors, Emma Chamberlain, is a good example of low contrast features. You’ll notice that lighter hair and softer makeup really complements her facial features – particularly her blue eyes. However, when she does add intensity to her face with darker hair and smoky eyes, it draws our gaze to specific facial elements. Emma Chamberlain’s Met Gala makeup look showcases how you can use contrast theory to intensify your makeup looks.

Medium contrast makeup

In medium contrast complexions, there is a little more disparity between skin tone, hair, eyes and eyebrows. For instance, your eyes and hair might stand out more against your skin tone – this is common in fair skin types with chocolate brown eyes and dark brows. Embracing contrast theory in a medium contrast complexion means either adding or diminishing intensity to balance your features. Lipsticks, blushes and darker, diffused eyeshadow are particularly effective tools to amplify your contrast intensity.

Staples of medium contrast makeup:

• A soft smoky eye is our go-to for balancing out darker features.
• Brown mascara or brown Idôle liner intensifies the eye while staying true to warm tones.
• Slightly darker-toned blushes like Idôle Tint Liquid Eye & Cheek Blush in ‘Earth Red’ work well with medium contrast complexions.
• Rich pink shades are perfect for a touch of intensity on the lips – we love L'Absolu Rouge Drama Ink Liquid Lipstick in ‘Soif De Vivre’

Medium contrast inspiration:

We can look to Zendaya, a longtime Lancôme ambassador, as our inspiration for medium contrast makeup. With a medium to deep skin tone, warm undertones, and darker hair and eyes, Zendaya is a true medium contrast. Pink lipstick shades complement her complexion, while a soft smoky eye balances out some of her darker features to create more harmony between her facial elements.

High contrast makeup

High contrast faces have a very high difference in intensity between facial features. It’s most notable in people with very pale skin and very dark hair, eyes and eyebrows. However, you might also notice high contrasts on people with deep skin tones and light, vivid hair colours.

To apply contrast theory to your makeup, you’ll want to accentuate your high contrast by adding intensity (which balances out your features). You can do this with bold makeup choices like a dark red lipstick or a smoky eye and smudged eyeliner – think the sultry ‘Italian beauty’ trend.

Staples of high contrast makeup:

• Smoky eyes look incredible on high contrast faces, so you can use the Hypnôse Eyeshadow Palette in ‘Smokey Chic’ to create your intense eyeshadow look.
• Sharp winged liner is synonymous with high contrast makeup, but you can also soften slightly with brown tones.
• Emphasise your eyes with a volumising mascara like Hypnôse Doll Eyes Mascara for an alluring, wide-eyed effect.
• If you only subscribe to one element of high contrast makeup, let it be an intense red lip like our vivid L'Absolu Rouge Drama Matte Lipstick in ‘French Touch’.

High contrast inspiration :

New Lancôme ambassador Olivia Rodrigo uses her signature red lip, winged liner and bright, fanned-out lashes to accentuate her high contrast features. While Rodrigo wears bold, enigmatic makeup looks like a second skin, her high contrast level can also be softened with pink lipsticks and warm, rosy blush.

Given that contrast makeup is all about enhancing your natural features, it could just be the perfect technique for your wedding makeup. So next, find inspiration with our top five bridal makeup trends.